So I’m not sure if you’re aware that South Africa is nearly out of water. It’s a hard concept to wrap your head around because water is…water.. You turn the faucet on and it just spills out. Even when you forget to turn it off or leave it on too long while you’re brushing your teeth. Or when you’re washing a single plate and you need that water to get good and hot first. You leave it on and it just keeps on dripping out. I’ve taken to politely haranguing people lately when they insist they need another glass of water and then fail to drink it up. In fact, it became a bit of a pet peeve of mine about customers at my (former) restaurant. One of the critical points in evaluating service depended wholly, it seems, upon whether or ot we managed to pay enough labor to keep that (free–to them not to me) glass of water filled to the rim. I know this, because a few of them politely but assertively told me so. And oh yeah, they wanted that water to be accompanied by a slice or two or–wait just bring me a dish–of fresh (and free) sliced lemons. Each and every night I dumped gallons of untouched crystal clear water down the drain and watched it swirl to its death, never having had the pleasure of fulfilling its destiny of quenching a bone fide thirst.
Anyway. Back to South Africa. Its a real thing. They’re nearly “out” of water, meaning the level in their reservoirs is falling below the drop dead (my words) level needed to preserve their ecosystem. When they shut the water off, the alternative will be for every man, woman and child to stand in a queue (or, if you’re rich–pay someone to do that for you) and haul your allotted 25 liters per person, per day, ration home where you can figure out how best to make that last for basically everything. Consider this: the average American shower uses 17.2 gallons or 65.1 liters and lasts for 8.2 minutes. So that will be out. Obviously. But its easy, to say “poor them” as we leave that faucet on as we fill our oversized bath tubs to the rim so we can have a warm soak with a bath bomb before a shower. But the other day, while doing a little research on another topic, I came across a documentary title that peaked my interest: “Water & Power: A California Heist” directed by Marina Zenovich. I watched that movie and I was shaken and stunned to the core. I’m not naive. I know that there’s power and money in way too many things these days. But I suppose I had just never extended my rage to the use of water in such a personal way. So you should definitely watch it. Immediately.
But here’s the thing. As a wine professional, I have an obligation to call out how my industry is wasting this finite resource for profit. And even when its creative expression. And I’m wondering now why more of us aren’t interested in speaking out about how crazy this is. Its easy to get mad at the huge conglomerates like the Wonderful Corporation (think POM wonderful, pistachios and Justin Winery in Paso Robles) but we have to ask ourselves. Why are we establishing industries in place that are not sustainable? Consider that “The majority of grape production in Washington [state] is located in the arid “East” where irrigation is an essential part of agriculture.” Those are the words of Washington State University Department of Viticulture and Enology. Meanwhile, back in France where zero AOC/AOP wines are allowed to be irrigated at all, producers watch sales go to the New World as they keep struggling on. No wonder they think we’re ridiculous. So dry-farming is a new requirement for my favored wine producers–anywhere and everywhere. And I’m pretty sure I need to re-evaluate my needs for all things almond. But watch that movie and tell me if you think I’m wrong. Fortunately for me, Frog’s Leap Winery in Napa has been dry-farmed for as long as I remember, so my passion for Frog’s Leap PINK and all their reds is safe.
Wine and Roam 